Replacing Plastic Fuel Fittings: that was a pain in the ass

Well, that was a pain in the ass.  It began well enough.  Removing the metal clips from the plastic fittings was pretty straightforward.  Push the pin in and then gently tease them apart and you don’t have springs flying everywhere.  I’m a bit confused as to why I needed to save the bits as the new fittings come with clips, but I’ll hang on to them anyway.


Following the directions online, I next took out the lower plastic fuel fitting in about thirty seconds.  The upper one (that leaks) immediately broke (I suspect it already was) and proceeded to spectacularly fall apart.  I spent the next two hours with a hot pick pulling bits of brittle plastic out of the metal fuel tank threads.  It turned into tedious dental surgery rather than a quick repair.


With the plate now clear of detritus, I should be able to install the new metal fittings and resolve my leaking fuel tank once and for all.  Since I have to remove the tank to pretty much do any engine maintenance at all, this fix will make the Tiger maintainable again.


With the fuel tank fittings sorted I’ll next be doing the fork oil (never done that before), change the plugs and do a coolant flush (which requires multiple fuel tank removals).  The Tiger will be fit should spring ever arrive.


Online Notes on Fuel Fitting thread sealant:
What to use for fuel fitting thread sealant:
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Don’t use teflon tape for fuel fittings!
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These guys make it:
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It’s available locally:
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The metal plate the fuel pump is connected to on the gas tank has a couple of plastic fuel fittings screwed into it.  The top one is leaking and was a pain in the ass to get out, the bottom one came right out easily.
The plastic male ends go into plastic female ends in a metal fuel pump plate.  Shortly it’ll all be stainless steel.
Getting it that clean took some patience.
The big, orange Triumph Tiger in maintenance mode – the battery pack is on the back to raise the front wheel off the ground for the coming fork oil change.

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Tiger Winter Maintenance Notes

Rims:   Front: 36 spoke alloy rim 19 x 2.5″  Rear: 40 spoke alloy rim 17 x 4.25″
2005 Tiger:  14 spoke cast alloy: same size (is this findable?  Yes it is!  Not rears though)


Tires: Front: 110/80-19 Rear: 150/70-17


Coolant flush.  2.8l of coolant (50% distilled water 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol)
– cool engine
– remove fuel tank
– remove pressure cap- 
– unscrew bleed hole bolt (thermostat housing)
– remove reservoir cap
– container under engine
– unscrew drain plug (left side of engine) & drain (keep the old washer for flushing)
– remove lower coolant hose and drain
– flush with tap water
– reinstall old washer & plug & lower coolant hose and fill with water & aluminum friendly rad flush
– reinstall drain plug (25Nm) rad cap and bleed hole bolt (7Nm)
– put fuel tank back on
– run engine to warm (10 mins) then let cool
– re-drain
– refill with plain water, repeat running, cool and redrain
– use a new drain plug washer and torque to 25Nm
– with everything but the bleed bolt installed slowly fill with coolant
– fill reservoir to MAX and cap everything and install bleed bolt (7Nm)
– run 3-4 mins, rev to 4-6k a few times to open it up, check rad and reservoir levels


Spark Plugs:  NGK DPR8EA-9   0.8 to 0.9 gap  20Nm  (under gas tank, like everything else)


Fork oil change:  Kayaba G10 or equivalent 107 mm from top of tube with fork spring removed and leg fully compressed.  Larger riders (like me!) might want 15 weight oil.
Tiger oil change intervals.  Tiger fork oil.
Fork oil viscosity  –  More Tiger fork oil info.
Capacity: 720cc/ml  oil level: 107mm (from top of tube with spring removed and compressed leg)
Removal of forks (with body work & front wheel removed)
– one at a time and with all gubbins removed from fork
– loosen fork clamp bolts
– loosen top fork bolt while it’s still on the bike (hard to do when it’s off)
– note alignment of fork before removing it
– loosen lower clamp bolts, it should slide loose out the bottom
top fork bolt:  30Nm
clamp bolts top yoke:  20Nm
Handlebar holder clamp bolts:  26Nm


Brake fluid flush   DOT 4


Chassis lubricant (swing arm, stearing head, levers & pedals): Mobile Grease HP 222 or lithium based multi purpose grease.

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Scotland and Shetland On Two Wheels

Another piece of fantasy trip planning so I’m ready to go when I become pointlessly rich…  this time Scotland and into the North Sea!

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 Two days on the mainland working our way north to the ferry port in Thurso…



TWO WEEKS:  SCOTLAND AND INTO THE NORTH SEA

Day 1:  Ediburgh to Inverbroom Lodge
Day 2: Inverbroom Lodge to Thurso
Day 3: Ferry to Orknies
Day 4: Orkneys day 2
Day 5: Ferry to Shetlands
Day 6-10: Shetlands
Day 11: Ferry back to Aberdeen
Day 12: Aberdeen to Edinburgh
Day 13: Edinburgh


FERRY INFORMATION

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Thurso to Orkney Islands: 90 minute crossing: £112

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Kirkwall, Orkney Islands to Shetlands: 7 hour crossing: £225

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Shetlands to Aberdeen: 12 hour crossing: £289


ORKNEY ISLANDS

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Two nights and two full days on the Orkney Islands… Scara Brae!
 

SHETLAND ISLANDS

 
The whole thing on Furkot:

Journey To The End of the Earth

Two weeks beyond John O’Groats…

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