I’ve done chains before but not sprockets. It’s a fairly straightforward bit of work you can do yourself in your shed/garage. In this case I’m doing both sprockets and chain on my 2003 Triumph Tiger 955i which has over 80k on it.
With the bike on its centre stand I removed the rear tire.
I picked up a chain breaking and installation tool a couple of years ago and it has more than paid for itself. It has pin sets that push chain pins out to break the chain (it keeps all the hardware in the handle so for the two+ years I don’t use it I’m not losing parts).
The new vs. the old front sprocket. The new one is 19 teeth, the old one 18.
The new front sprocket on the motor. These are the parts I used:
Not bad for the original stock rear wheel with over 80k on it, eh? If you think modern Triumphs aren’t well put together, this one was, and with quality parts.
The new chain and sprockets on.
The connecting link (see it?) is pressed into place with the DRC chain tool which also pushes links together as well as pulling them apart..
|The Tiger had a deep maintenance last year, so this year it only needed the chain & sprockets. It’s back under the blanket waiting for a break in the snow for a cheeky early-spring ride. Next up is doing the brakes on the Kawasaki, then I’m into rebuilding the Amal carbs on the 50 year old Bonneville winter project.|
If you’re looking for torque settings and parts details for a 2003 Triumph Tiger 955i while doing a sprocket and chain, here they are:
- chain sag: 35-40mm
- drive chain adjuster (the clamp on the adjustable rings in the swingarm): 35Nm
- rear sprocket nuts: 85Nm
- front sprocket nut: 132Nm
- rear wheel axle bolt: 85Nm
- 530 chain with 114 links (if that seems confusing, check THIS out)
- 18 tooth front sprocket (though 19 is recommended)
- 46 tooth rear sprocket
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