Some pictures to help me put this complicated 3d puzzle back together again properly.
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Some pictures to help me put this complicated 3d puzzle back together again properly.
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Tools for finding what goes where (it’s spaghetti in there!).
The comprehensive disassembly video shared previously: https://youtu.be/5JP0_Kv7x5w?si=Ictk8g8qK3e_hB3m
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Pipe in the foreground right is the routing for the coolant line to the overflow tank. |
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White plug in black reed valve centre plug. |
https://youtu.be/RvQjEvCSGvI?si=CCvs4HMMJBEHfooM
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Big grey plug under the throttle cables |
Wobbly and somewhat non-linear, but another disassembly video:: https://youtu.be/b-HDezrXSc0?si=hlvAZWdhF7Qg7hoC
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Black wire from throttle bodies to cam sensor on valve cover. |
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Definitely white plug in black reed cover. |
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It’s a slow process putting all this back together again. Even with a prolific number of photos and copious notes here on the blog I’m finding this a fiddly and frustrating process. My current plan is to get everything plugged in, top up the radiator and run it to make sure it’s back together right before trying to button it up (there are a f(@# ton of buttons).
The latest fun has been plugging the plethora of plugs over the valve cover back in.
I’ve got a couple of plugs (21) left after connecting everything else. The question now becomes, are they oxygen sensor plugs not used on a 2010 Canadian market bike?
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Got the plugs in, except for those two top left of the rat’s nest. |
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Here’s a close-up. That white one has me baffled but perhaps it’s the front cam sensor. |
Tomorrow (assuming the late March ice storm we have in store doesn’t throw us back to the stone age), I’ll check for oxygen sensors on the exhaust, and if not there I’ll know that one of those plugs is probably unused.
Other things to check are the front cam sensor (7-R on the diagram) which was very difficult to reinstall with a new o-ring. That plug is probably dangling down the front and needs to find a mate on top of the motor. If that’s my missing plug and the other one is an unused oxygen sensor then I’m about there.
After that gets settled I’ll do one last look around for anything I might have missed before topping up the radiator and seeing if this thing’ll run. If runs like a clock I’ll reroute the wires properly and should have it back to a point where I can start reinstalling all the fairings – which is a whole separate pain in the @$$, but at least one I’ve done before.
Then things get philosophical. Work has picked up and I don’t have the patience or headspace to spend hours each weekend keeping these old bikes in motion. The temptation is to get $10k (CAD) between them and then buy something that can go when I need it to without so much TLC.
I can save the wrench turning for when I retire. I enjoy working on them but trying to do a job this complex when I’m having to leave it for weeks on end while I’m travelling makes a difficult job more so. Had I the time and space to do this daily when I wasn’t juggling a demanding job, it’d have been an entirely different experience.
I’m loving the travel opportunities and my work is something I enjoy, but the deep bike maintenance doesn’t fit with it at this point in my life.
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Haliburton was magical… |
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Flying out to the maritimes is never a bad thing… |
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…but those weeks away mean I’m coming back to an incredibly complicated job sometimes 20 days after I last touched it. |
I’ve never made enough to be sentimental about vehicles and keep everything I buy (I’d rather put those resources toward travel anyway). Time to simplify the bike stable to let me focus on riding when I can squeeze that in. I’ll save the time suck that is older bike ownership for when I have more time to suck.
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Last fall I took the fuel injection apart on the 2003 Triumph Tiger 955i. It wasn’t fueling properly and was unrideable. I barely got any mileage on it last season, so I replaced every o-ring in the system and got a new fuel pump for it. It also got new throttle and clutch cables last year. If this last hail Mary attempt to resolve the atrocious fuel injection on this old bike didn’t work, it was out the door.
The good news is it fuels nicely again for the first time in a year! I’ve still got to tune it and get the idle right, but it feels fantastic. Look back over the posts in December and earlier to see the details and where to get parts. If you’re trying to keep an old Triumph 955i on the road (Triumph doesn’t support them with parts any more), try this, it seems to work!
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Battery needed a kick, but once charged up it ran like a top. |
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First chance to try out a new Shark helmet. My first and I’m not disappointed. |
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Still got snow on the borders. |
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The Grand River is swollen by the spring runoff – that’s the camp ground underwater on the other side. |
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That grin is involuntary. The first time you lean into a corner after a long winter on four wheels is magical. |
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After what seems like weeks of disassembly (because it has been), the C14 valve job is finally turning the corner back towards reassembly! I’m pushing to get it around the corner because even with all of this documentation I still want to have muscle memory of how it came apart when I put it back together. Today the cams came out along with the shims and everything got measured, so it’s time for some maths!
The process of taking the cams out is pretty straightforward, but like everything else has twice as many fasteners and bits to it than you’d expect.
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Caps off revealing the cams. With the tensioner removed (notice the slack in the chain) you can slip the cams out from under it. |
…and finally, I’m at what this whole production has been about: the shims under the cams. The caps are suctioned in with oil, but if you give them a turn by hand the magnet picks them up easily – the shims are underneath.
What the gaps are supposed to be: SPEC: exhaust valves 0.19 – 0.24mm Intake valves 0.12mm to 0.17mm.
red = tight, white = spec, pink = on the cusp of tight: most are tight so will need slightly shorter shims to make a bigger gap, but we’re talking fractions of a milimeter here.
0926-1391: 215mm x 1 0926-1392: 220mm x 3 0926-1393: 225mm x 9
Here we go again:
C2 I1: 2.20 (=0.16 gap) C2 I2: 2.175 (=0.17 gap)
Under $30 US. Even with the conversion, shipping, customs (and now tarrifs), I’ll still be miles ahead. The site is a joy to use, they sell individually AND at a higher resolution than anything I could find in Canada. I’m book marking https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
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I was busy at work with conferences, but got back for a Sunday afternoon in the garage. I’m trying out a new kerosene heater that seems to have solved my cold weather issues.
Once I had it into double digits Celsius I finished multi-checking the gaps:
Confirming the first round of measurements:
SPEC: exhaust valves 0.19 – 0.24mm Intake valves 0.12mm to 0.17mm.
red = tight, white = spec, pink = on the cusp of tight:
Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4
EX 0.18 0.18 0.2 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.21
IN 0.15 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.10 0.13 0.11 0.12
Things are pretty tight. CoG has good resources on shim details. Tomorrow the cams come out, I measure what shims I’ve got, do some maths and order new shims for the tight valves. This means that perhaps next weekend I can turn a corner and actually start putting this thing (which is looking like a disassembled Concorde) back together again!
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I was (of course) hoping that the valves would all be in spec, but after a first round of measurements that is (of course) not the case, so this open heart surgery is going a step deeper: the camshafts are coming out. No point in getting in this far unless I sort everything while I’m in here.
Concours 14/1400GTR exhaust valves need to have between 0.19mm and 0.24mm of clearance. The intake valves need 0.12mm to 0.17mm. Looking at the notes below, I’m out of spec (tight) on most of them, making me wonder if anyone has ever been in here before. This one has 45k kms on it but it was semi-dormant when I found it. Most of the mileage was done in its first five years then it sat a lot. Alas, this is probably the case for most bikes.
Looking at this with red being too tight, white being in spec (anything on the edge I made pink), it’s clear that C14s get tighter as they go:
Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4
EX 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.22
IN 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.09 0.11 0.11 0.12
Now that I’ve got a round of measurements, I’m going to do it all over again (that’s what the pink notes are at the top of the handwritten bit above – the second round). Measure twice cut once and all that.
I hope to have confirmed everything this week and then I’ll order shims to get everything in the sweet spot. Or not…
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It was -35 with windchill (-22C actual) last night. Will be again tonight, so I’m not going into the bloody garage! |
Incredible that 5% of one millimeter is the resolution this machine works within, but what amazes me more is that even at a fraction of a millimetre I’m still sticking a bit of metal (like a caveman) in to measure these fine details. Why don’t motorcycles make use of the mechanical precision used in car engines for the past quarter century and automatically adjust valves? Good question.
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Cam timing cover off to spin the motor and line up TDC for cylinders 1 and 4 which lets you check all the clearances. |
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Note the mark on the left side of the wheel where the cover gasket goes on – that’s your timing mark. |
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The plumbing over the cams is something else. |
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The 0.127mm feeler gauge doing the business between the cam and that shim underneath. Replacing the shim with a smaller one puts the gap back in spec. |
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Using the bent and tapered bits I double checked each space. And will again before I commit to buying shims. |
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I put together a page with the details I’ve gleaned from COG’s documentation and the shop manual to keep track of my measurements. I’ve got two sets of feeler guages because I’m suspicious like that and always want a second opinion. It’s particularly important in this case because having to go back in there again if a mistake is made isn’t (at all) what I want to do.
With cylinder one top dead centre (TDC) and the cams both pointing out to offer access for the guages, I had a go at number one cylinder yesterday.
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Cam timing cover came off with minimal fuss and just a drop of oil. |
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My suspicion of cheaply made tools causes me to have backups. In this case the tappered ones are metric first and offer a finer degree between fits. |
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Ran the propane heater for 20 minutes before getting started. Made for a much more comfrotable experience. |
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Keeping things in order – the valve cover bolts numbered and in their ‘custom’ holder. |
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It took 2 sessions about about 5 hours to get to the point where I can actually remove the valve cover and check clearances. |
This is not the work of an afternoon. To get into the valves on a C14 takes patience. In addition to the advice about staying organized and documenting the process, I’d suggest a ‘move the ball down the field’ approach. As long as you get a bit more done each time you’ll get there, but don’t be in a rush and expect to have to come back multiple times. With this approach I didn’t get as frustrated as I sometimes do in the garage. It being the middle of Canadian winter with no chance to ride any time soon helps too. Nothing stresses me out more than watching one of my few riding opportunities each year pass me by because I don’t have a bike ready to go (though I hope the Tiger is).
I’m finally at a point where I can actually remove the valve cover. I won’t lie. Yesterday as I was wrestling the air suction valve gear out of the ridiculously tight space I was wondering who the masochist was who designed this and had a little day dream about cold cocking them.
It’s cold in the garage when it’s double digits minus outside, even with the heater on, so hand cramps were an issue as I worked stuck fasteners loose. Whoever was last in there tightened the frame bolts well past spec, and even the small bolts holding in the air suction valves were a fight, having to be turned out a quarter turn at a time with a hex key.
Here’s the order of operations so far:
Fairings
I’ve been into them before for various reasons. They’re complicated, but came off with a minimal of swearing.
Once I had them all off access to the valve cover became seeable, but so is the mad amount of plumbing that surrounds them. Getting the fairings off is the tip of the iceberg on this job.
Frame connectors
There are some easy to get ones that you can remove once the fairings are off. 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex that connect the motor to the back and front of the frame. Whenever you think that’s enough, Kawasaki Heavy Industries overengineered another piece. This thing really is built like a nuclear sub.
With those off I took the coolant reserve tank out of the way (two 10mm bolts). So far I’ve gotten deep into this with just 10 and 12mm sockets and 5mm hex bolts (not counting all the fasteners on the fairings). The mechanical fasteners are considerately consistent (unlike Triumphs). I’m going to have to source other fairing fasteners as the cheapo Amazon ones I got all broke when removed.
There are two more frame connectors (because more of everything was how the Conours was designed), one on each side and held in by two 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex bolt. Whoever did these last tightened them to within an inch of their lives, but I got them out. The three fasteners are visible once you’ve got the fairings off, but once you’ve got them out the piece itself needs to be slid out from the plastic radiator shroud. I’ve been warming things up with the heat gun to prevent cracking as I bend plastic and rubber things.
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The right side one is easy to access and if you’ve taken the fairings off, easy to remove. The pipe you see left of the top arrow is the air suction system. Getting that out is a right *@&#er. |
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The left side one not so much. Note the heat gun blowing warm air on the rubbers and plastics to make things easier to remove (helps with the electrical connectors too of which there are many). |
With the frame pieces off it was a matter of removing the pipes and connectors that crowd the top of the valve cover. It’s tight in there and even disconnecting electrical components was a real struggle with my non-Japanese sized hands.
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First look at the valve cover, but lots of other gubbins have to come out before I could get that rubber cover folded out of the way. |
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With the air suction valve(s) – there are (of course) two of them, out you can see the cover, but that cam sensor in the middle of this pic has to come out too (8mm bolt holding it it). |
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
With the Inlet Camshaft Position Sensor removed the valve cover was finally free and came off (out the right side) revealing the fantastically complicated top end.
Next up will be turning the engine around with a rachet and getting an idea of where the valves are in terms of clearances.
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