Mechanical Sympathy

Ontario Library Association Super Conference 2025

I feel great shame. I wrapped up this year’s Ontario Library Association super conference a few weeks ago, but my Kawasaki needed me and I’ve been neck deep in engine heart surgery instead of reflecting on this fantastic conference. Mechanics that my life depends on is sufficiently engrossing.

This reaction is (in part) happening because I have begun the process of separating myself from the my decades long role in Ontario public education. I’m still committed to changing the system but it isn’t, and it has processes in place to remove any foreign contaminants that try to change the status quo. I suspect my ‘innovative’ approach has led to some early constructive dismissal. In talking to other refugees from OntEd who tried to change it and found their return unwelcome, this is a systemic mechanism across all school boards. All that aside, here are my reflections from OLASC 2025…

This was my second go at the OLA Super Conference, I last went in 2023. This year, like the former one, was remarkably emotional. You can’t help feeling that these are the front line people trying to hold civilization together even as it seems determined to tear itself apart. I’m left dizzied by the size of the fight against them.

Tech billionaire oligarchs are leveraging bottomless resources to direct a biblical flood of idiotic panic mongers who are happy to churn out disinformation that buys political victories. Once in power they have the tools to dismantle the critical thinking based education that we all used to aspire to.

Nothing is easier to incite than ignorant, misinformed, angry people. Our tech overlords have designed systems that encourage propaganda and reduce people to shallow, self-contradicting talking heads. I’ve been struggling to get pedagogically meaningful digital literacy into more classrooms throughout my career, but I’m beginning to realize that this is contrary to the direction society is going. Swimming upstream against this big money gets tiring in your mid-fifties.

Libraries standing against this political onslaught are having their resources systemically cut because libraries are precisely the institutions we designed to stop this sort of thing. How do you win such a one sided fight? I’m beginning to think that the democratic elections being gamed by this process can’t produce governments capable of stopping it, and I’m getting all Asimov-Foundations about it. Perhaps it’s time to save what we can for civilization until we start rebuilding again. And yes, these are my thoughts as I watched the Ontario Library Association standing against book bans and funding cuts.

Belief in the mission is one way to keep up the fight, but everyone seems worn thin by the effort. Keeping a strong front becomes difficult when your allies dwindle and everything you’ve built around literacy and critical information analysis is dismissed as meaningless. We live in interesting times. Being able to tie one on at the evening social with the brilliant women leading this fight was a highlight.

Carol Off‘s closing keynote was earth shaking. I wish they’d put it out so more people could hear it. Her retirement from As It Happens on CBC coincided with the rise in hate and division we’ve seen around us. Her talk cut to the quick describing the mechanics of this nastiness in vivid detail. It was a much needed rallying cry even as the barbarians hammer at the gates.

***

I’d signed up to present at the conference because I wanted to demonstrate (rather than just talk about) the importance of government, civil society and industry working together for our mutual cyber well-being. If you think that’s not a priority, 2025 is only a few weeks old and dozens of Canadian school boards have already been crippled by cyber-attacks, most of which depend on clueless users to get in. The vast majority of our cyber woes are a human education problem, not a technical one.

While we were at the conference one of Ontario’s bigger urban boards was off-line due to another cyberattack. This persistent problem isn’t just affecting school boards. The automated nature of cyber attacks these days has clueless criminals with no technical skill buying ‘cyber-crime as a service (CaaS) that lets them launch hundreds of cyber-attacks to see which one sticks. This is why you’re seeing a rise in attacks on organizations that make no sense, like libraries. As a result, this year at OLASC and in addition to our talk, there were multiple well attended presentations focused on getting libraries and their patrons better cyber-defended. I wish Ontario school boards felt the same way, but they prefer to play victim rather than solve the problem.

In the spirit of cooperation I reached out to many cyber organizations, but the common response seems to be a shrug when you’re sitting on a comfortable amount of funding, which isn’t very mission driven of them. I did connect with Debra at Knowledgeflow who is nothing but mission driven and she worked tirelessly to help build our collaboration in a country designed against working together. This ended up being our pitch for the talk:

To demonstrate the width of our collaborative approach, Marie at the Canadian Centre for Cyber Security joined our motley crew along with Cheryl from Cyber Legends. This gave us a full complement of cyber expertise from federal government, civil society and private industry. I can only shake my head at the many other not for profits, industry and provincial organizations who weren’t interested in participating because they’d rather just do their own thing poorly. Gaps caused by these little fiefdoms are why Canada is considered a prime target in global cyber-crime circles.

You might think that school boards are ‘doing’ cyber education locally, but the material I see (if there is any at all) is reductive, outdated, performative and not at all pedagogically valid in terms of teaching skills. Most of the cyber awareness stuff being trotted out locally looks to be made by people with no background or experience in cybersecurity. In many cases the cringy media they produce doesn’t look like it was made by anyone with an instructional background either.

Cybersecurity education needs to be developed by qualified people and delivered with best pedagogical practices in mind if we’re to get at the prickly subject of digital safety. A reasonable expectation would be that this outreach produces a demonstrable improvement in real world cyber-safety skills in both students and staff as evidenced by a substantial drop in the neverending reports we’re getting about school boards being hacked. You can tell what we have isn’t working by simply looking at the headlines.

Until we stop handing this off to “a guy in IT” or a relative of administration who is “good with computers”, we’re going to keep making these headlines.

Debra has this slide up in our presentation and suggested that these kinds of systemic failures aren’t something that individuals can influence, but I disagree. If the vast majority (research suggests over 80%) of breaches are caused by someone clicking on something they shouldn’t and letting criminals in past otherwise effective defences, then a skills based approach to cyber-education would also reduce these kinds of headlines!

Our talk can be found here: https://knowledgeflow.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/OLA-Conference-Cybersecurity-Isnt-a-Scary-Word.pdf and includes piles of material designed by cyber specialists. Whether you’re working with post-secondary, K-12 or even with adults, you will find credible material designed to teach actual cyber skills rather than questionable performative marketing material that checks a box.

The talk went very well in front of a full house and many stayed afterwards to get contact information and talk about next steps. This kind of outreach is essential if we’re to turn the tide. I wonder were all the other catalysts for cyber in Canada were that morning.

***

After our talk I popped over to a presentation on the role of AI in student research:

DIana and Kim took on a subject that alternately instills fear and provides hope for a better education system. The fact that we’re turning to machines to create a better educational outcomes is (I would suggest) because the humans doing it have given up on that responsibility themselves – which speaks to my main concern with AI: if we let it replace us it will, and that won’t be better.

Kim and Diana started with a look at how relationships with AI have changed over time through media, and then got into the nuts and bolts of critical uses in process driven learning. If every educator approached teaching with the same lens we wouldn’t be worrying about AI’s influence on an education system that has remained mired in a pre-information revolution mindset. The humour and honesty was much needed and helped clear away all the edtech marketing clutter which has become a roar in the last year.

The inconsistencies in the edtech AI sell are difficult to make sense of. No AI for students, but teachers can happily use it to replace even core human activities like reporting on student learning? This is going to end well.

If you think the solution is to ban AI you’ve missed the boat while also putting your students in real cyber-peril. The ‘free’ VPNs that students use to get around blacklisted sites on school board wifi are anything but free. The shady organizations (mainly criminal) that pay for this bandwidth get a chokehold on a user’s data. Imagine school boards saying they aren’t going to run buses any more but at the same time a stranger in a white van pulls up and offers them free rides. Schools do nothing to stop the white vans lining up at the front of the school day in and day out; same thing.

Students *are* using AI in their school work and I think they should if your assignments are still final product nonsense stuck in the idea that information is difficult to find (like it’s 1985). If you’re assessing process, AI is a powerful tool for enriching student thinking. If you’re still handing out assignments that only describe the final product you’re looking for that students can drop into an AI that will spit out an answer you think is real, then AI plagiarism is what you deserve. There was a moment in this year’s Davos talks about it:

Go to 40:52 if the video doesn’t automatically.

The worst thing we can do is ignore AI or think that board IT that can’t stop breaches can stop AI from being used. This head in the sand thinking is exactly why we’re in a multi-generational digital literacy crisis that is crippling democracies and making it impossible for young people to find work. Reaching for an emerging technology like AI that demands so much inter-disciplinary digital infrastructure to operate (none of which most people have a first clue about) is like reaching for a nuclear reactor when you’re learning how to start a fire, but that’s exactly what we’re doing.

I made a point of attending talks on cyber attack recoveries to understand how mature public library policies are around dealing with them (rapidly improving because they had to is the answer). Of interest was a comment from the Toronto Public Library head of IT who mentioned that their outage resulted in a huge spike in users accessing their terminals when it finally came back on, underlining the important role public libraries play in helping many Canadians cross our widening digital divide.

There is still room to improve though, and even when an organization recognizes the need for a cyber skilled approach to breach management they seldom want to consider putting anything towards cyber in a preventative manner.

A heartwarming moment on day two was seeing Joseph Jeffries and Jennifer Casa-Todd recognizing the yawning digital skills gap in our education systems and tackling digital skills head on with the Canadian School Libraries. Seeing this happen across provincial lines gave me hope as this doesn’t happen a lot in the true north siloed and self-interested.

Though they had a first thing in the morning slot they brought together a room full of educators from coast to coast and got everyone thinking about the many skills that full under the auspices of digital fluency. For a long time there was a reductive approach that believed that putting coding in the curriculum would solve all our digital woes, but this is like studying grammar and spelling closely and then assuming it will produce literate people. There is a reason why we call it digital literacy and not digital skill. The latest fade is computational thinking, but again this is reductive. The skills needed to build a network, program an IoT sensor or resolve a breach are very distinct.

Like traditional literacies, digital literacies are interdisciplinary and complex. Some are more technical than others and some are more media adjacent, but they all have to be developed if we want to start producing digitally fluent graduates. The OSLA/CSL digital skills toolkit will be a good step in that direction, especially as we’re all fixated on grabbing the latest magic fruit to fall from the digital tree.

No regrets about attending OLASC this year. It was heart breaking and warming all at the same time. If we ever see the superconference quietly disappear, civilization is sure to be next.

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Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.4 – Cams out, shims measured!

After what seems like weeks of disassembly (because it has been), the C14 valve job is finally turning the corner back towards reassembly! I’m pushing to get it around the corner because even with all of this documentation I still want to have muscle memory of how it came apart when I put it back together. Today the cams came out along with the shims and everything got measured, so it’s time for some maths!

The process of taking the cams out is pretty straightforward, but like everything else has twice as many fasteners and bits to it than you’d expect.

These oil pipes all have to come out. They’re only held in by o-rings but were a struggle to release (you can imagine the heat cycles the o-rings in there have been through). What seemed to work best was (very carefully) getting a slot screwdriver down at the base and gently freeing it.

Caps off revealing the cams. With the tensioner removed (notice the slack in the chain) you can slip the cams out from under it.

The oil pipes (top right), cam chain tensioner (bottom right), intake (bottom) and exhaust cam shafts, and then the four caps and hardware (top left in the order they came out with fasteners included).

…and finally, I’m at what this whole production has been about: the shims under the cams. The caps are suctioned in with oil, but if you give them a turn by hand the magnet picks them up easily – the shims are underneath.

What the gaps are supposed to be: SPEC: exhaust valves 0.19 – 0.24mm Intake valves 0.12mm to 0.17mm.

red = tight, white = spec, pink = on the cusp of tight: most are tight so will need slightly shorter shims to make a bigger gap, but we’re talking fractions of a milimeter here.

Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4

Gap 0.18 0.18 0.2 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.21

Shim 2.27 2.22 2.29 2.29 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.23

Gap 0.15 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.10 0.13 0.11 0.12

Shim 2.25 2.20 2.22 2.20 2.30 2.25 2.20 2.25

Here’s the calculator (I just threw it in a spreadsheet):

They look like they do them in 0.05mm sizes. Let’s see if I can do this in my head.

Cylinder 1 Exhaust 1 needs a 2.20 and a 2.15 (I’m going smaller because everything was tight and a smaller shim means a bigger gap). 2.20mm would mean the 0.18 gap becomes a 0.25 gap (too wide). A 2.25 shim only gets me 0.02 back and makes the 0.18 a 0.20 gap (in spec but up the tight end). C1 Exh 2 2.20 gets me 0.20 (spec but up the tight end – but maybe that’s as close as I can get).

Exhaust

C1 E1: 2.25 (0.20 gap) C1 E2: 2.20 (0.20 gap)

C2 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap). C2 E2: 2.25 (0.23 gap)

C3 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap). C3 E2: 2.25 (0.24 gap)

C4 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap) C4 E2: 2.20 (0.24 gap)

Intake

C1 I1: at spec C1 I2: at spec

C2 I1: at spec C2 I2: at spec

C3 I1: 2.25 (0.15 gap) C3 I2: at spec

C4 I1: 2.15 (0.16 gap) C2 I2: 2.20 (0.17 gap)

Shopping Canadian is Harder Than it Should Be

The kits aren’t helpful – I’d be paying for a pile of shims I don’t need and they only come with 3 in each size, so I’m stuck there too. They also only come in 0.05mm gaps. Following the above logic I should buy 2.25 x 7, 2.20 x 3 and 2.15 x 1. Let’s go have a look at a Canadian option: https://fortnine.ca/en/pro-x-valve-shim-refill

At $15.78 a pop I’m looking at a salty ~$170+ plus taxes, but (of course) they barely have any in stock so even if I wanted to pay through the nose it’s still a no go. Looking through other makes on there, they all look to be out of stock. So much for buying Canadian.

Let’s try another one: Parts Canada:

0926-1391: 215mm x 1 0926-1392: 220mm x 3 0926-1393: 225mm x 9

…but Parts Canada doesn’t sell online and seems to work out of people’s garages which doesn’t fill me with confidence.

This got the thumbs up on the GTA motorcycle group:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pro-x-valve-shim-p?v=9115

And they’re on it – and even have half sizes! So now I can touch up my gaps better.

Here we go again:

Exhaust

C1 E1: 2.225 (0.225 gap) C1 E2: 2.175 (0.23 gap)

C2 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap) C2 E2: 2.25 (0.23 gap)

C3 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap) C3 E2: 2.25 (0.24 gap)

C4 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap) C4 E2: 2.20 (0.24 gap)

Intake

C1 I1: at spec (.15) C1 I2: at spec (0.14 gap)

C2 I1: 2.20 (=0.16 gap) C2 I2: 2.175 (=0.17 gap)

C3 I1: 2.25 (=0.15 gap) C3 I2: 2.225 (=0.16 gap)

C4 I1: 2.15 (=0.16 gap) C2 I2: 2.225 (0.16 gap)

14 out of 16 valves need shims.

2.225 x 3, 2.175 x 2, 2.25 x 6, 2.20 x 2, 2.15 x 1 (total of 14)

Under $30 US. Even with the conversion, shipping, customs (and now tarrifs), I’ll still be miles ahead. The site is a joy to use, they sell individually AND at a higher resolution than anything I could find in Canada. I’m book marking https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/

I’m going to calibrate the digital measurement tool I’m using by checking that the existing shims are 9.48mm diameter. It seemed close by eye but at fractions of a milimeter eyes aren’t much good. I found the number changed depending on how I hold it, so if I can figure out which is the most accurate way, I’ll use that when I do the confirmation measurements (measure twice cut once etc).

Where the cam chain tensioner is, in case the super close up in the shop manual proves unhelpful (as it did with me). 2 x 8mm bolts and it springs free. Reinstallation involves taking the tension off so you can align the chain.

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Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.3 – confirmed gaps, next up is cam removal and shim measuring

I was busy at work with conferences, but got back for a Sunday afternoon in the garage. I’m trying out a new kerosene heater that seems to have solved my cold weather issues.

Once I had it into double digits Celsius I finished multi-checking the gaps:

Confirming the first round of measurements:

SPEC: exhaust valves 0.19 – 0.24mm Intake valves 0.12mm to 0.17mm.

red = tight, white = spec, pink = on the cusp of tight:

Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4

EX 0.18 0.18 0.2 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.21

IN 0.15 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.10 0.13 0.11 0.12

Things are pretty tight. CoG has good resources on shim details. Tomorrow the cams come out, I measure what shims I’ve got, do some maths and order new shims for the tight valves. This means that perhaps next weekend I can turn a corner and actually start putting this thing (which is looking like a disassembled Concorde) back together again!

Unfortunately, I’m doing this just in time for the Americans to turn on us for no reason and make everything more expensive. Putin must be loving this, but then he did pay for it… but I digress.

Hopefully I’ll have some time tomorrow to take out the cams and measure the shims in my warmer garage.

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Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.2 – the cams are coming out

I was (of course) hoping that the valves would all be in spec, but after a first round of measurements that is (of course) not the case, so this open heart surgery is going a step deeper: the camshafts are coming out. No point in getting in this far unless I sort everything while I’m in here.

Concours 14/1400GTR exhaust valves need to have between 0.19mm and 0.24mm of clearance. The intake valves need 0.12mm to 0.17mm. Looking at the notes below, I’m out of spec (tight) on most of them, making me wonder if anyone has ever been in here before. This one has 45k kms on it but it was semi-dormant when I found it. Most of the mileage was done in its first five years then it sat a lot. Alas, this is probably the case for most bikes.

Looking at this with red being too tight, white being in spec (anything on the edge I made pink), it’s clear that C14s get tighter as they go:

Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4

EX 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.22

IN 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.09 0.11 0.11 0.12

Now that I’ve got a round of measurements, I’m going to do it all over again (that’s what the pink notes are at the top of the handwritten bit above – the second round). Measure twice cut once and all that.

I hope to have confirmed everything ~~this week~~ and then I’ll order shims to get everything in the sweet spot. Or not…

It was -35 with windchill (-22C actual) last night. Will be again tonight, so I’m not going into the bloody garage!

Incredible that 5% of one millimeter is the resolution this machine works within, but what amazes me more is that even at a fraction of a millimetre I’m still sticking a bit of metal (like a caveman) in to measure these fine details. Why don’t motorcycles make use of the mechanical precision used in car engines for the past quarter century and automatically adjust valves? Good question.

Like a caveman…

The middle ones are tricky to get to and the covers and various plumbing don’t help even on the edge cylinders. That Moto Guzzi is looking more and more appealing, though it won’t be the rocketship that the Kwak is.

Cam timing cover off to spin the motor and line up TDC for cylinders 1 and 4 which lets you check all the clearances.

Note the mark on the left side of the wheel where the cover gasket goes on – that’s your timing mark.

The plumbing over the cams is something else.

The 0.127mm feeler gauge doing the business between the cam and that shim underneath. Replacing the shim with a smaller one puts the gap back in spec.

Using the bent and tapered bits I double checked each space. And will again before I commit to buying shims.

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Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.1 – checking clearances

I put together a page with the details I’ve gleaned from COG’s documentation and the shop manual to keep track of my measurements. I’ve got two sets of feeler guages because I’m suspicious like that and always want a second opinion. It’s particularly important in this case because having to go back in there again if a mistake is made isn’t (at all) what I want to do.

With cylinder one top dead centre (TDC) and the cams both pointing out to offer access for the guages, I had a go at number one cylinder yesterday.

Cams up and out on cylinder one (left side of motor) – it took me a few turns of the engine to get it lined up right and start getting good measurements. It doesn’t hurt to do this two or three times so you’re sure the came is at maximum gap and you’re getting good numbers.

This cover on the lower right side of the engine is removed with 8mm bolts. It’s a 17mm M8 that you throw a big rachet on and turn the engine. Direction of travel is noted on the timing wheel as are marks for TDC for cylinders 1 and 4. You can do half the valves with C1 TDC and the other half with C4 TDC.

Cam timing cover came off with minimal fuss and just a drop of oil.

My suspicion of cheaply made tools causes me to have backups. In this case the tappered ones are metric first and offer a finer degree between fits.

I’ll do the rest today. As many said it would be, Cylinder one appears tight. Exhaust valves should have between 0.19-0.24mm of clearance. I can just get a 0.18 in there and the 0.203 wouldn’t fit in either cylinder one or two’s exhaust valves.

Ran the propane heater for 20 minutes before getting started. Made for a much more comfrotable experience.

Keeping things in order – the valve cover bolts numbered and in their ‘custom’ holder.

With the forray into ‘vintage’ motorcycles last year my sockets were muddied with imperial and whitworth bits. They’ve been relegated to a lower drawer. I think I’m sticking with metric bikes for the forseable future. If I take another dive into vintage it’ll be when I’m retired and have the time to navigate all the complexities.

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Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 1 – getting in there

It took 2 sessions about about 5 hours to get
to the point where I can actually remove the
valve cover and check clearances.

This is not the work of an afternoon. To get into the valves on a C14 takes patience. In addition to the advice about staying organized and documenting the process, I’d suggest a ‘move the ball down the field’ approach. As long as you get a bit more done each time you’ll get there, but don’t be in a rush and expect to have to come back multiple times. With this approach I didn’t get as frustrated as I sometimes do in the garage. It being the middle of Canadian winter with no chance to ride any time soon helps too. Nothing stresses me out more than watching one of my few riding opportunities each year pass me by because I don’t have a bike ready to go (though I hope the Tiger is).

I’m finally at a point where I can actually remove the valve cover. I won’t lie. Yesterday as I was wrestling the air suction valve gear out of the ridiculously tight space I was wondering who the masochist was who designed this and had a little day dream about cold cocking them.

It’s cold in the garage when it’s double digits minus outside, even with the heater on, so hand cramps were an issue as I worked stuck fasteners loose. Whoever was last in there tightened the frame bolts well past spec, and even the small bolts holding in the air suction valves were a fight, having to be turned out a quarter turn at a time with a hex key.

Here’s the order of operations so far:

Getting Cylinder Head Cover Access

Fairings

I’ve been into them before for various reasons. They’re complicated, but came off with a minimal of swearing.

Once I had them all off access to the valve cover became seeable, but so is the mad amount of plumbing that surrounds them. Getting the fairings off is the tip of the iceberg on this job.

Frame connectors

There are some easy to get ones that you can remove once the fairings are off. 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex that connect the motor to the back and front of the frame. Whenever you think that’s enough, Kawasaki Heavy Industries overengineered another piece. This thing really is built like a nuclear sub.

With those off I took the coolant reserve tank out of the way (two 10mm bolts). So far I’ve gotten deep into this with just 10 and 12mm sockets and 5mm hex bolts (not counting all the fasteners on the fairings). The mechanical fasteners are considerately consistent (unlike Triumphs). I’m going to have to source other fairing fasteners as the cheapo Amazon ones I got all broke when removed.

There are two more frame connectors (because more of everything was how the Conours was designed), one on each side and held in by two 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex bolt. Whoever did these last tightened them to within an inch of their lives, but I got them out. The three fasteners are visible once you’ve got the fairings off, but once you’ve got them out the piece itself needs to be slid out from the plastic radiator shroud. I’ve been warming things up with the heat gun to prevent cracking as I bend plastic and rubber things.

The right side one is easy to access and if you’ve taken the fairings off, easy to remove. The pipe you see left of the top arrow is the air suction system. Getting that out is a right *@&#er.

The left side one not so much. Note the heat gun blowing warm air on the rubbers and plastics to make things easier to remove (helps with the electrical connectors too of which there are many).

With the frame pieces off it was a matter of removing the pipes and connectors that crowd the top of the valve cover. It’s tight in there and even disconnecting electrical components was a real struggle with my non-Japanese sized hands.

You can’t fit a 3/8 rachet and bit in that gap, so the air suction valve covers (which you can’t even see in this because they’re buried under piles of electronics, coolant pipes and anything else they could stuff in there), need to be removed with tiny quarter turns with a 5mm hex key. Take your time, try not to get frustrated. You eventually get in there.

The ultimate goal it to get the rubber cover over the top of the engine out of the way.

First look at the valve cover, but lots of other gubbins have to come out before I could get that rubber cover folded out of the way.

Air Suction Valve

This consists of a rubber hose going up into the airbox above and connecting not one but two air suction valves (more is always better, right?). These are held in by 5mm hex bolts that nasty to get out – so nasty that I’m heading out to Canadian Tire to look at low profile rachet options (the 3/8 bit on the rachet won’t fit in there and doing these by hands is painful).

With the air suction valve(s) – there are (of course) two of them, out you can see the cover, but that cam sensor in the middle of this pic has to come out too (8mm bolt holding it it).

Cylinder Head Cover Removal

Remove fairings
Remove Air Suction Valve (see Air Suction Valve Removal)
Stick Coils (see Stick Coil Removal in the Electrical System chapter)

The stick coils for the spark plugs are in there tight too and require some careful convincing to come out. I’m probably the first person in here certainly since the bike started getting underused ten years ago and possibly ever.

With the Inlet Camshaft Position Sensor removed the valve cover was finally free and came off (out the right side) revealing the fantastically complicated top end.

Next up will be turning the engine around with a rachet and getting an idea of where the valves are in terms of clearances.

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Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Adjustment Research Part 2

The last post included online research on getting into the C14 to resolve an oil leak and check the valves. Inline four cylinder engines are a nightmare for valve checks with everything buried deep in the bike between the frame and lots of valves to check. Getting into this has me dreaming of a Moto Guzzi or BMW with sticky outie cylinders that make this sort of regular maintenance easy. On the upside, the C14 only needs the valves checked every 25k or so.

Of course those twin options don’t have anything like the performance of the 1400GTR. I had to remind myself that this is a performance machine. I enjoy being on the fastest thing in a hundred kilometers and you have to put some time in on it to keep it purring.

The Concours Owners Group is well worth connecting with if you find yourself with-Concours (I joined and got the t-shirt). You get gems like this from COG’s tech pages. Corrections to the shop manual – pretty handy!

First time valve check:

https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/

“The job is not difficult but is tedious and no short cuts are advised.” – indeed.

Shims: https://fortnine.ca/en/pro-x-valve-shim-refill about $15 each (!)

9.48mm diameter shims

Can’t buy them at the dealer which leads many people to wonder how the dealer does valve adjustments (or if they just say they do) when a job like this can cost well over a grand with 8+ hours in it.

Valve Clearance Check Video #1 from Moto-Resto Machine & Repair on YouTube: https://youtu.be/RvQjEvCSGvI?si=L56j3YAc2c4cIye7

Keep the slider handy to dodge around how his dog is doing or when he’s going to get groceries and you get the whole process.

The series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvQjEvCSGvI&list=PL1oMvckfLIJGzkYHWXiDk8kN_IOBSI3jT

Chattier and off topic more than I like in a video, but he does get into the thing. Valve cover comes out the right side after removing a f**ton of bits and pieces. Bag ’em and tag ’em indeed! Looks like the radiator and fuel tank don’t go anywhere (you access the top of the engine from the sides).

Lots of people saying it’s time consuming but not difficult. Pace yourself and stay organized seems to be the most common advice.

do this in stages
don’t rush
take notes and many photos so you have an outside chance of getting it back together again
have a big sheet to put bits on
have ziplocks and a marker handy – bag ’em and tag ’em
first time is likely 10+ hours, second time is half that, but after the first one they seldom go out again (!)

I’m OK if this is the only time I ever do this on a C14. 😊

Other Concours 14 Engine Technical details:

Items ZG1400CA ∼ CD, ZG1400DA

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @1 100 r/min (rpm)

Spark Plug NGK CR9EIA-9

Cylinder Numbering Method Left to right, 1-2-3-4

Firing Order 1-2-4-3

Valve Timing:

Inlet:

Open 17° (BTDC)

Close 75° (ABDC)

Duration 272°

Exhaust:

Open 52° (BBDC)

Close 22° (ATDC)

Duration 254°

Lubrication System Forced lubrication (wet sump with cooler)

Engine Oil:

Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2

Viscosity SAE10W-40

Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt)

Adjustment Shims

Thickness Part Number Mark

1.750 92180-1212 –25

1.775 92180-0221 –23

1.800 92180-1211 –20

1.825 92180-0222 –18

1.850 92180-1210 –15

1.875 92180-0223 –13

1.900 92180-1209 –10

1.925 92180-0224 –8

1.950 92180-1208 –5

1.975 92180-0225 –3

2.000 92025-1870 0

2.025 92180-0209 3

2.050 92025-1871 5

2.075 92180-0210 8

2.100 92025-1872 10

2.125 92180-0211 13

2.150 92025-1873 15

2.175 92180-0212 18

2.200 92025-1874 20

2.225 92180-0213 23

2.250 92025-1875 25

2.275 92180-0214 28

2.300 92025-1876 30

2.325 92025-0215 33

2.350 92025-1877 35

2.375 92025-1058 38

2.400 92025-1878 40

2.425 92025-1982 43

2.450 92025-1879 45

2.475 92025-1983 48

2.500 92025-1880 50

2.525 92025-1984 53

2.550 92025-1881 55

2.575 92025-1985 58

2.600 92025-1882 60

2.625 92180-1059 63

2.650 92025-1883 65

2.675 92180-1194 68

2.700 92025-1884 70

2.725 92180-1195 73

2.750 92025-1885 75

NOTE There are two kinds of marks [A] [B] in the shim.

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Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Clearance Research & Resources

Research

Concours 14 parts: https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/2010/ZG1400CAF

Fuel tank sits on the frame:

Cylinder cover parts and diagram. Isn’t that fantastically complicated?

The battery box slots into the side of the frame. Not sure if I have to remove it to get to the cylinder head. Honestly, with that much frame around it, how on earth do you get into the valve cover at all?

Airbox diagram: it slots into the frame on the other side from the battery. Again, not sure if that all has to come out.

Based on what I’m seeing here I need to take a lot of photos as I dismantle and keep everything on a clean sheet in order next to the bike so I have a chance of getting it all back together again. Organization will be key!

***

Hints at problems with sealing the new gasket? https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/valve-cover-gasket.53892/

Murph’s Kits parts: https://murphskits.com/c14-valve-adjustment-kit-1/ promises to provide all the bits you need (that the dealer parts counter guy won’t bother to tell you about):

Oil leaks become an issue unless you replace all the o-rings as well as including a new gasket? Might as well change the spark plugs and fuel filter while in there. Ends up being $338 (CAD) for all of it, plus another forty bucks in shipping – still much cheaper than parts from the local dealer and with helpful additions so I’m not left with a leaky mess. I’ve got Murph’s Kit bits all over the C14 and trust them. The set is ordered.

***

Good list of parts numbers for C14: https://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0

2010 C14 Service manual – 99924-1431-01

AIR FILTERS
Air Filter Element – 11013-0014
BMC Air Filter – 466/04
K&N Air Filter – KA-1406

Fuel
Fuel Pump filter/strainer/whatever 49019-0013. From a 2013 Kawasaki 750 side-by-side (not sure what they are calling it).
Fuel Pump O-ring – 670E5075
Fuel pump (fuel pump housing would need to be disassembled) http://www.fuelpumpfactory.com/Kawasaki-fuel-pump-Concours-14-s/6323.htm

WASHERS & Push Rivets
Final Drive Crush Washer – 92022-1086
Final Drive O-Ring for Filler Cap – 92025-1735
Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer – 92065-097
Water pump coolant drain crush washer – 92200-0498 Adept Power Sports

Fairing screw nylon washers:
5.3mm ID X 11.5mm OD X .5mm thick – 92200-0006
10.4mm ID X 19mm OD X .5mm thick – 92200-0157

Windshield mounting screw nylon washers:
10.3mm ID X 17mm OD X 1.0mm thick – 92200-0380
Nylon Push Rivet (two sizes) – 92039-0051 & 99039-0051
Push rivet under the windscreen – 92039-0048
Motosport.com Bolt Brand 6mm Nylon Push Rivet – 2005-6RIV (These may not work)
Balkamp part number 665-1446 (pkg of 9) available at NAPA for (rivet 92039-0051)
Hillman push-in Nylon Rivet – 1/4 inch H#881216 (Lowes) barcode 0823671607, for the top of dash
Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Push-In-Rivet-5MUF8 (not sure if these fit)
Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Fender-Rivets/dp/B0039LEU0I (not sure if these fit)

MC OIL FILTERS Designed for the bike
Kawasaki 16097-0004
K&N KN-303
Mobil1 M1MC-134 (crosses to a K&N KN-303)
Hiflofiltro HF303/303C
Amsoil EaOM103
Emgo 10-82222
Fram PH6017A
Parts Unlimited 010035X

Oil Filters others use (other than OEM fitment – use at own risk)
A/C Delco – PF2135
Amsoil – 24942 (I think this is a Wix filter)
Napa Gold – 1358
Napa – PS1358 (black and costs less)
Purolator ML16817 (made for MC, not sure if it fits our bikes)
Purolator Pure One – PL14610 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Purolator Pure One – 2.5″- PL14612 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Wix – short: 51358; long: 51356
Champion 7317 (same as SuperTech)
Mobil 1 M1-110

BULBS
Tail License Plate Bulb – 92069-1055, 5007, R5W (5 watt)
Front/ Rear Turn Signal Bulbs – 92069-1125
Turn signal bulbs are 7507A bulbs (BAU15s base)
Headlight Bulb 12V-60/55W – 92069-1002 (standard H4)
Small headlight Bulb 12V/5W – 92069-1016
City lights are either a 2825 (5w) or a 2886 (6w)
City lights (LED, inverted cone, white) 194 or 168

Switches
SPST Waterproof Miniature Rocker Switch (On-Off) 16A Green 12V (also available in red) .921″ Long x .685″ Wide x .551″ Deep Part Number: NTE-54-204W $5.40 each https://shop.vetcosurplus.com/

TIRES/Wheels
Front Tire Size – 120/70ZR17
Rear Tire Size – 190/50ZR17
Front bearing seal (08/09) 92049-0050
Rear bearing seal (08/09) 92049-1061
Wheel Bearings (F) – 6005UU oem, or 6005 2RS1 or 6005 2RSH (SKF replacement numbers)
Wheel Bearings (R) – 6304UUC3 oem, or 6304 2RS1 or 6304 2RSH (SKF replacement) the “C3” designation is a standard for precision, SKF bearings are normally C3 unless specified otherwise…
Rear Wheel Bearing All Balls – 25-1353 (Comes with one seal – you need one kit – it has two bearings)
90 Degree retrofit valve stems for the original tire sensors: Honda part VALVE ASSY., RIM 42755-MCA-R31 2014 Goldwing

Steering
Steering Stem Bearings – All Balls Racing -Tapered roller bearing and seal kit for steering stem (steering head) C-14
Part No. 22-1039 Cost: $47.95 http://www.allballsracing.com/

BRAKE STUFF
Front pad Assembly – 43082-0071 (2 EA) (08-09)
Front pad Assembly – 43082-0112 (2 EA) (2010)
Rear pad Assembly – 43082-0055 (1 EA)
Rear brake pads – EBC FA254 (Kevlar) or FA254HH (Sintered)
Front brake pads – EBC FA417/4HH (Sintered)
Front pads – Ferodo FDB2220ST (mcstuff.com p/n 454-1071, requires two sets)
Rear pads – Ferodo FDB2111P (p/n 454-2682) (evidence is these don’t last as long or bite as well as other brands)
Carbone Lorraine – 1177SBK5 (front x 2), 2813RX rear
Front ABS brake line – Galfer SS FK003D625-3
Caliper rebuild kits – https://brakecrafters.com/product/caliper-seal-kit-bcnr0036/

Engine Parts
Spark Plugs – CR9EIA replaced by CR9EIA-9, gap .036 IRIDIUM!
Valve cover gasket – 11061-0263
Pulsing Cover gasket – 92055-0086
Oil pan drain bolt – 92066-0079
Oil pan drain bolt with magnet – MP-01, MP-11 for the rear drive https://ift.tt/rpxajLk
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner APE KTZx14
(NOTE: This replaces the self adjusting cam chain tensioner and eliminates the ‘startup rattle’. Downside is that you will have to keep an ear out on the adjustment. There is no track record on how long the adjustment holds. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! )

Replacement Exhaust Header Nuts – McMaster-Carr 93795A230 M8.0 Oval Locknut. Use with stainless steel washers.
Fuji-lok nuts for the Exhaust Header – Use with stainless washers
Note: the ’10 manual specs 13ft/lbs for torque. This should apply to the other manuals as well.
Oil filler cap – 16115-1009 (note: Fits the rear drive as well)

Tools
Oil filter wrench – 57001-1249
Pennzoil oil filter wrench 2″-3 3/4″ 51mm to 95mm
JIS +2 Driver (for the ‘flies) https://ift.tt/lAVxCWn
15mm drag link tool for rear drive filler plug http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=drag+link
Stem nut socket from CycleDude
Steering stem top nut – 12mm hex 79.7ft lbs torque
Front wheel removal – 13/16″ spark plug socket, reversed
Rear Axle – 27mm socket for the large nut, 14mm hex wrench for the left side

Final Drive
Filler cap o-ring – 92055-049 (31mm)

Swing arm
OEM Left hand side torque arm bolt is 10x63mm with part number 92153B (used to be 92153A)
OEM Right hand side torque arm bolt is 10x67mm with part number 92153C (used to be 92153A)
The flanged lock nut part number is the same for both bolts 10mm diameter nut with part number 92210B

Electrical
Battery for FOBs – CR2025 3v (watch battery)
Battery for TPS – CR2032L/F1N http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=P668-ND
Other sources for TPS batteries https://octopart.com/cr-2032%2Fvcn-panasonic-19088802
Or P660-ND check both of them out on digikey’s site.

12V bike battery sources
Stock battery FTZ14-BS Furakawa – dealer sourced most likely (expensive)
AGM MBTX12U 14AH by MotoBatt (I have this and it’s working fine, no issues)
Shorai battery LFX21A6-BS12 Tender SHO-BMS01
Battery Stuff http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTX14-BS.html

Bodywork
Left side cowling parts 39156-031, 033, 034, 0371, 0395
Battery cover stud rubber grommet – Frame fittings, p/n 92075-1011, damper

Levers
Brake – ASV BRC511
Clutch – ASV BRC511

Key Blanks
Key Blank – ILCO KW14R Warning, this may only work for the 08 model locks and there appears to be two types of keys in use. The KW14R only works with one of them. If your key starts with an A it will be a “Silca KW14R” keyblank. If it starts with a B it will be an “Silca KW14” keyblank.
Works ok on the bags but you will need to not insert it the whole way for the seat as it doesn’t have the stop the Kawi key does. http://www.mysecuritypro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=663
Ron Ayers has new Oven Knob keys. A and B style key. If you look at your key in the fob it will have a number that starts with either A or B.
27008-0050 Style A
27008-0051 Style B

TPMS sensor part numbers
US bikes 315 Mhz (green). Note that EUR, AU, SEA use 434Mhz sensors (blue). MY (have no clue what MY stands for) sensors 315Mhz (red)
2008-2013 21176-0125
2014-2015 21176-0748

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955i Tiger Fuel Injection O-Ring Replacements

I found some o-rings at the local NAPA that come mighty close to the mystery sized ones that Triumph won’t tell anyone what spec they are or provide any more, so I rebuilt the fuel injection rail with all new o-rings.

The chubby lower o-rings came from Amazon (I’m cobbling together parts from wherever I can). Sure would be nice if Triumph would release detailed specs on the older Hinckley Triumphs they don’t support anymore.

While I was going over things I thought I’d have a look at the throttle sensor. There was some speculation (based on the similar 955i Sprint) that there is an o-ring that disintegrates which causes connection problems, but the Tiger doesn’t have one. I know because I took one off one of the spare injector bodies I had and looked.

Will it work? I’m going to give it a go this week and see since it’s weirdly warm out and all the snow has melted. What do I expect? It not to work, but maybe I’ll be pleasantly surprised.

With the Tiger reassembled I figured I’d do the oil change I didn’t get around to on the Concours 14 before I parked it for the winter, only to discover oil all over the side of the engine, so the bikes have been swapped and now I’m looking at a deep dive into the GTR1400. It looks like it might be the valve cover and since I haven’t done the valves on it yet I’m going for it.

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Triumph 955i fuel injector O-ring research

Tiger’s still not working (see previous post). Here’s my best guess: the new fuel pump has caused the old O-rings in the fuel line to leak causing a vacuum leak, so I’m digging for new O-rings, but of course Triumph doesn’t sell them anymore and seems to go out of their way to not tell you what size they are. Wouldn’t it be nice if a manufacture who don’t support their bikes after only 20 years at least open sourced the specs so the aftermarket could pick them up?

Anyway, off to the internet I go to research! Here are the notes:

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/triumph-2003-955i-cutting-out-when-throttle-blipped.27324/page-3

“There is a O ring on the Tps (throttle position sensor) that gets worn and swells causing a voltage delay when closing the throttle causing the incorrect signal to the ECU.

Cure? Simply remove this O ring haha, So i did this last night and took her for a test ride this morning whilst picking up some essentials. BINGO!”

Part 23 = T3600053 | O ring
Part 4 = Throttle potentiometer Part Number: T1290500 – but it doesn’t look like it has an o-ring involved in it, so that advice is suspect.

12 = O ring. Rail, Part Number: T360005313 = O Ring, Injector, Upper Part Number: T1245016
14 = O Ring, Injector, Lower Part Number: T1240806

Store: The O-Ring Store https://www.theoringstore.com/store/

Parts: V3.00×008 V75 (upper), and V2.40×009.6 (lower) – those are the dimensions (upper = 3

Suggestions from forums on potential issues: “Don’t be surprised if you find that the end of your fuel line is actually cracking at the fitting. I chased O rings for a while and discovered that to be my source instead.”

“the union (which is plastic) was the culprit. It was cracked and just giving it a wee jiggle made it worse”https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/955-sprint-fuel-o-ring-rubber-sizes.163915/
Fuel Fitting O-Rings

* Triumph O RING, FUEL PIPE CONNECTOR – T1240181
* Buna-N O-Rings – #9452K19 McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/

o SPECS
+ AS568A Dash Number: 010
+ Type: O-Ring
+ O-Ring Type: Standard
+ Width: 1/16″
+ Actual Width: .070″
+ Inside Diameter: 5/16″
+ Actual Inside Diameter: .301″
+ Outside Diameter: 7/16″
+ Actual Outside Diameter: .441″
+ Material: Buna-N
+ Durometer: Hard
+ Durometer Shore: Shore A: 70
+ Temperature Range: -35° to +250°F
+ Color: Black
* Viton O-Rings – #9464K16 McMaster-Carr

o SPECS
+ AS568A Dash Number: 011
+ Typ:e O-Ring
+ System of Measurement: Inch
+ Width: 1/16″ (1.5875mm)
+ Inside Diameter: 5/16″ (7.938mm)
+ Outside Diameter: 7/16″ (11.113mm)
+ Material: Viton
+ Durometer: Hard
+ Durometer Shore: Shore A: 75
+ Temperature Range: -15° to +400°F
+ Color: Black
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38145

NAPA cross reference on this o-ring is:
Part Number: BK 7272011
Product Line: Balkamp
Dimensions : 5/16″ I.D. x 7/16″ O.D. x 1/16″ W ( 7.938mm I.D. x 11.113mm O.D. x 1.5875mm W )
Material Type : Buna-N-Nitrile
SAE or Metric : SAE

QUESTION: are the upper and lower O-rings different (I’m assuming so because Triumph gave them different part numbers). – they are different thicknesses.

The upper o-ring is approximately 15mm outer diameter with a 3.5mm cross-section, while the lower o-ring is about 15mm outer diameter with a 2mm cross-section

2mm wide lower: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GJK53QJ/
3.5mm wide upper: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JWCD86K/
I’ll give these a go and see how they do.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/156327987779 – that’s high-larious! Forty bucks for an (as in ONE!) 20 year old O-ring! It ain’t just the stealerships who cane you for these parts (when they deign to sell them).

https://theinjectorshop.com/en-ca/products/fuel-injectors-rebuild-repair-o-ring-kit-for-triumph-sprint-st-tiger-1050-2007-2009?_pos=1&_sid=00ce905cd&_ss=r

Hmm, do 1050 tigers use the same O-rings/injectors?

2007 Tiger 1050 parts:
O Ring, Injector, Upper T1245016 (same as 955i part)
O Ring, Injector, Lower T1245006 not – damn it!

Hey, Tim. Try using AI to solve this problem! Here’s Perplexity.ai (on ‘pro’ mode!)

Adamantly and repeatedly incorrect. So much for HAL 9000 fixing the Tiger. I’ll give those Amazon parts a try and let you know the results.

NAPA details: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/PSH71169 Part #: PSH 71169
.301 ID X .070 W (7.645mm ID X 1.778mm) why only show the inside diameter?

Deja vu: https://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot.com/2023/10/finding-your-way-around-oems-giving-up.html

Based on that the 15mm outside diameter 3.5 and 2mm thickness is a pretty close guess.
Why doesn’t NAPA provide dimensions: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/ELR429060. I’m going to run over to our local with the two O-rings and see if they’ll help me match them up, but the site could be more helpful.

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