I was (of course) hoping that the valves would all be in spec, but after a first round of measurements that is (of course) not the case, so this open heart surgery is going a step deeper: the camshafts are coming out. No point in getting in this far unless I sort everything while I’m in here.
Concours 14/1400GTR exhaust valves need to have between 0.19mm and 0.24mm of clearance. The intake valves need 0.12mm to 0.17mm. Looking at the notes below, I’m out of spec (tight) on most of them, making me wonder if anyone has ever been in here before. This one has 45k kms on it but it was semi-dormant when I found it. Most of the mileage was done in its first five years then it sat a lot. Alas, this is probably the case for most bikes.
Looking at this with red being too tight, white being in spec (anything on the edge I made pink), it’s clear that C14s get tighter as they go:
Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4
EX 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.22
IN 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.09 0.11 0.11 0.12
Now that I’ve got a round of measurements, I’m going to do it all over again (that’s what the pink notes are at the top of the handwritten bit above – the second round). Measure twice cut once and all that.
I hope to have confirmed everything this week and then I’ll order shims to get everything in the sweet spot. Or not…
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| It was -35 with windchill (-22C actual) last night. Will be again tonight, so I’m not going into the bloody garage! |
Incredible that 5% of one millimeter is the resolution this machine works within, but what amazes me more is that even at a fraction of a millimetre I’m still sticking a bit of metal (like a caveman) in to measure these fine details. Why don’t motorcycles make use of the mechanical precision used in car engines for the past quarter century and automatically adjust valves? Good question.
Like a caveman…
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| The middle ones are tricky to get to and the covers and various plumbing don’t help even on the edge cylinders. That Moto Guzzi is looking more and more appealing, though it won’t be the rocketship that the Kwak is. |
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| Cam timing cover off to spin the motor and line up TDC for cylinders 1 and 4 which lets you check all the clearances. |
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| Note the mark on the left side of the wheel where the cover gasket goes on – that’s your timing mark. |
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| The plumbing over the cams is something else. |
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| The 0.127mm feeler gauge doing the business between the cam and that shim underneath. Replacing the shim with a smaller one puts the gap back in spec. |
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| Using the bent and tapered bits I double checked each space. And will again before I commit to buying shims. |
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